"I never knew of a morning in Africa when I woke up that I

was not happy."

-Ernest Hemmingway

Sunday, February 13, 2011

Francistown

I recently returned from a swim meet up in Francistown with the UB Aquatic Squad. A trip for the memory books, and my first real immersion experience as the only international student along for the ride. The bus transportation was actually a “combi for hire”, complete with an absolutely fearless driver. I can't say the same for myself: there wasn't a single seatbelt in the combi (but a fire extinguisher mounted on the wall, oddly enough). While every other aspect of life in Botswana seems to operate in the slow lane, driving does not. Vehicles went hurtling past us to overtake on the small two lane highway. I watched, with increasingly sweaty palms, as numerous cars in front of us manoeuvred to allow three abreast on the road after a driver misjudged the overtaking distance. No one else seemed remotely concerned. The journey lasted about six hours, and we arrived well after dark at the University of Botswana campus in Francistown. The accommodation for the night...an empty classroom. With air conditioning! Thus I was happy as a clam. The swim meet ran from sun-up to sun-down on Saturday, hosted by a local school with an outdoor facility. The organization was commendable even if the pool did look dangerously murky by the end of the day. Competitors ranged from tiny seven-year-old beginner swimmers to thirty-five-year old experts. My event was scheduled for Sunday morning and thus I was able to simply relax and take in the surroundings. It was my first swim meet experience- one I hope to repeat sometime in the near future. I enjoyed the company of the other students and appreciated the philosophy/attitude of the UB squad coaches. Namely, we shopped for meals at the local grocery store, which was a welcome change after years of tedious and expensive restaurant dinners with soccer teams. I can certainly understand keeping things simple on a tight budget. The evening spent in Francistown was nothing more than a relaxing hang-out at the campus, yet I loved every minute of it. There is something truly enjoyable and comfortable about the Batswana personality. I was laughing along and having a merry old time even though the general conversation was 95% Setswana and 5% English. With African music playing in the background we held arm wrestle competitions (a matter of great pride for the men) and turned over a few dance steps. The ease with which locals move to music will never cease to amaze me. I can only dream of that natural rhythm. I awoke Sunday morning with my usual pre-competition jitters. Had I known I was swimming in a lane beside a nine and eleven year old, perhaps my fears would have been allayed. Or doubled! After fifty hectic meters of freestyle, I was just happy to have pulled off the dive from the starting blocks and the tumble turn. The young swimmers were right on my heels. What are they feeding kids these days? I ended up placing fourth in my age group (17 and over). Out of five competitors. Perhaps I'll switch to butterfly or breast stroke. Either way, it was wonderful to compete again in a sport that didn't involve a ball at my feet. And I received a very interesting education from the squad on the drive home. African Culture 101. We had some weighty discussions that dipped into everything from racism, to Obama, to cattle farming. I arrived back at my dorm room feeling significantly enriched, inspired, and content. I just might be falling in love with Africa.
Food for thought: Thanks to the local students on the trip I had the chance to tease my palate with new delicacies. Firstly, marula fruit. Approximately the size of a plum and green in color, these little tidbits are for “dejuicing” rather than eating. As words really won't suffice, when in Botswana, ask a local for handling instructions. Apparently there are several trees on the Gaborone university campus (which I will be raiding on a frequent basis in the future). Secondly, sweet reed. Easily mistaken for Panda food, aka Bamboo. Street vendors usually sell a pole for 3 Pula which will take a while to work through. After breaking the stalk into it's natural segments, the hard outside layer is removed to expose a whitish core. Which can be merrily chomped upon. I felt rather like a cow when working the stuff around in my mouth- the juices get swallowed and the fibres spit out.

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