Back to Nature

There's nothing quite like trekking up a trail in the African wilderness. Or rather, reaching the summit of Kgale Hill in the outskirts of Gaborone. The view from the top was lovely, as the city was laid out below and neighbouring hills poked at the horizon in the distance. The hike up was a short 30 minute affair, at which point I enjoyed a picnic lunch on giant boulders with my fellow excursionists. We ran across a family of Baboons and several charming lizards on the way down. The journey back to campus required a combi transfer, and I was once again thrilled with the experience. The drivers are friendly, the passengers happy to squeeze, and the rickety buses never fail to make me smile. I also made a trip out to the National Botanical Gardens. Finally some success, after THREE previous failed attempts to locate the site. The map has it plotted incorrectly, and NO ONE in the vicinity even knew of its existence. I would say “very strange”, but I am slowly starting to come to terms with the different sense of direction awareness that is typical here. At the very least, volunteer prospects at the Botanical Gardens look hopeful-I only have to wait on a response to my letter for the Director. Let's see how long that takes...

Bookworm: I recently finished the novel “Three Cups of Tea.” A fabulous read that I wouldn't hesitate to recommend, particularly for world travellers and anyone willing to discard wrong assumptions and embrace other cultures.

Casualties: The list of unfortunate incidents is growing. In addition to the start of semester mugging, one room was broken into over the weekend (chains and padlock cut) and the electronics stolen, one girl was drugged at a house party (minor, no medical attention required), and one camera was lifted smoothly from a backpack while a student was walking. While I can't help feeling an impending sense of loss for my valuables, it is easy to stay optimistic as there are so many positive aspects of Botswana that far outweigh the negative.

Average Joe

I woke up this morning to find a cow ambling past my dorm room window. Delightful. An early run was in store, and I was pleasantly surprised to see a number of other 'stay-fit' enthusiasts out at the campus track. A few seemed to regard my Yoga workout with curiosity, and I ended up making a couple new friends. My schedule is finally starting to mold itself into something regular and I've started to recognize classmates as I walk around campus. The school week came to an end with a tedious four hour Plant Pathology lab on Friday evening. However, it was my first class held in an air conditioned environment, so I would have gladly spent the whole night plating petri dishes and cutting up spinach leaves. I did manage to slice my finger open with a scalpel in pursuit of leaf blight. After which a classmate informed me that the blades were sharp. Yes, thank you. Hopefully I won't sprout fungal growth in a few days time. A visit to the campus pool cleared me of all worries. The fifty meters of cool, sun kissed water were amazing. Completely refreshing. I spent a solid two hours floundering around in bliss. Unfortunately the student swimming hours are limited from 2:00-6:00pm, so planning around the class schedule is required. And I've decided to take on another student group. The newly discovered UB Ballroom Dancing Club. I headed out Saturday night to enjoy a live competition and get a feel for what was in store. The event was inspiring to the point where I was ready to buy a ballroom gown and put on a pair of dancing heels. Ages ranged from six (cheeky little boys and girls with sequined dresses) to adult. There was a delightful mix of Waltz, Jive, Salsa, Rumba, Cha Cha, and Quickstep. The Jive seemed to be the dance of choice for the competitors, as attitudes sparked and some local moves spiced up the performances. It may be well past midnight but I'm definitely in the mood for a Dirty Dancing movie marathon.

FullHouse

I now have some appreciation for what a Monsoon must be like. This morning the 5 foot deep trenches/gutters around campus ran swift with raging rivers as the sky emptied. We've had these downpours before, but they have been brief ten minute affairs. This time the onslaught lasted for almost four hours. My umbrella was rendered useless; my plastic crocs a beautiful thing. Trekking across campus from one club meeting to another, I had to start prioritizing. Sadly, I said goodbye to the UB Choir as conflicts with the Wildlife Conservation Society and the UB Aquatic squad arose. Instead I became a proud member of SAHA: the Society Against HIV/AIDS. Given the prevalence of the disease in Botswana, and the ongoing efforts to decrease the number of infected individuals (condoms can be found anywhere on campus, and are freely distributed), I wanted to join a group that highlights such a key issue. Volunteer work starts immediately, as free testing/screening for HIV is available for students at the campus health clinic this week. My other enquiries to volunteer with NGO's are still unanswered. In the meantime I'll be focusing on class work. Conservation Biology met for its first lab session, and golly was it a good time. Ninety plant pots, barrels of soil, radish seeds galore, and smoothie drinks made from water and syringa leaves. Not for human consumption. The experiment will test the effects of toxic chemicals in the leaves of the syringa tree (an invasive species) on the growth of the common radish plant. Wonderful. Finally some hands-on science, even if I did sweat off a storm working in the greenhouse with a wool inspired lab coat.

Raise Your Glass to Conservation

This weekend got off to an exciting start as I joined the UB Wildlife Conservation Society for an outdoor retreat. Or rather, a typical start as the bus didn't get moving until two hours after the intended departure time. The weekend fee was an astonishingly cheap 35 Pula, covering transport, meals, and accommodation. The destination was the Gaborone Game Reserve, a short 10 minute drive from the university campus. After unloading supplies at the camp site, I set off on an evening walk with a few other students. Generally, the reserve is a driving only attraction (despite the lack of predators), but we barely had to stray far before encountering a huge herd of Impala and the comical profile of Guinea Fowl charging across the road. A dinner of rice and stew welcomed us back to camp where the enormous communal cooking pot was straight out of Hansel and Gretel. The atmosphere around the fire was comical and boisterous. A number of the society members were well on their way through a cooler of drinks, yet surprisingly still amiable to be around. At least for the first few hours. Along with the other seven international students, I turned it in around midnight. A dusty old relic of a circus tent was to be our temple of rest. Featuring a complete lack of ventilation and no floor to insure that all thirty occupants, once covered in a sufficient layer of rusty dirt, would spend the whole night sweating. Not that I was going to get much sleep anyway. Painfully loud conversations (more akin to friendly shouting matches) carried on well past four in the morning. Along with some strange singing. And then the breakfast crew awoke at 5:30am to start preparing the morning meal. Result: no sleep. However, an early walk uncovered a herd of Zebra, several Kudu, Warthogs, a group of Ostriches, Monkeys, and...best of all...a whole handful of Dung Beetles rolling their precious cargo down the road. Stopping for a moment on a huge rock slab it was easy to soak in the surroundings and the exotic sounds echoing from the forest. We started the day off right (or wrong, depending on your food preferences) with Fat Cakes, a traditional breakfast food of yeasty dough rolled into circles and fried. Next on the agenda was a Society meeting. Perhaps the most ridiculous, pointless, polite, repetitive, structured meeting I've ever had to sit through on no sleep. Bewildered? So was I. Though I hate to use such a cop out, it really was something you had to experience for yourself. Suffice to say, a stuffed antelope specimen was sitting on the front table, rear pointed towards the audience; the meeting coordinator had a stopwatch and whistle; several society members still had beers in hand; the room smelled of formaldehyde; yet individuals stood up and used formal addresses before passing comment or stating an argument, and guest speakers had been invited. Bizarre. Lunch afterwards featured Pap, a maize meal quite like porridge. And of course, more drinks. For the first time, I tried my hand at Jungle Speed. If you've ever played the card game Spoons, you will understand why several of use walked away with welts and scratches on our hands. All in the pursuit of victory. The afternoon was filled with more socializing and finally a bry that served up enormous hunks of meat. People here sure like their beef. Several new arrivals brought the total group number to almost fifty. With the prospect of another sleepless night in store (amid even more sweaty bodies), I caught a ride back to campus with the international students. A cool welcome awaited, thanks to my room fan.

Conclusion: Yes, I would definitely do it again. Apart from a lack of sleep, the excursion was a great experience, the beginning of new friendships and also a sense of belonging within the UB Wildlife and Conservation Society.As well, I came away from the weekend having mastered the three part Botswana handshake, and being christened with a Setswana name. Kitso, meaning knowledge.

Tryouts

Thank goodness for Liqui Fruit. On a campus where fresh fruit is a rare species and vegetables are served with teaspoons at the cafeteria, I find myself wanting for a major food group. Enter...the greatest beverage ever! Conveniently canned, no sugar added, no preservatives, pure fruit juice deliciousness. Available in several mouth watering flavors. On another health note, yesterday I experienced my first “gym class” in Botswana. Volleyball began with 4 laps around the court and stretches out of an 80's workout video. Several girls were wearing sandals and skirts. Hmm. Perhaps first day ill-preparedness? Gymnastics was much of the same, except the lap count was extended and half the class hid in the corner after tiring on the 6^th lap. However, there is something about “common misery” and group activities that helps to break the ice: I met at least 30 friendly and exuberant students. On a similar quest to establish more contacts, I joined up with the UB aquatic squad and the UB choir. I'm an inefficient sinker and I can't hold much of a tune, but thought the experience would be worthwhile. The Aquatic squad has yet to hold a practice, but I attended a choir session just this evening. Prudent advice: If not musically gifted, don't stand in between the alto and soprano sections. You will end up not being able to sing either part. The pieces are all in Setswana, which will prove frustrating at first but hopefully I'll adapt faster to the language by learning through music. Do re mi fa so la ti...

Student tip: Before forking out hundreds of Pula for textbooks, check the university library for earlier editions of the recommended reading. Books can be checked out for a month, and then renewed twice. If you reach the stacks before your fellow students you can basically secure a textbook for the entire term and keep some bills in your pocket.

Cultural note: By far my favourite expression used in Botswana remains “Isn't it?”. Used extensively by everyone, particularly lecturers after stating any significant point. I counted during Plant Pathology this morning and noted eight uses of the expression during a short hour long class. “The major concern of Plant Pathologists is the health and productivity of economic plants...isn't it?...yeeesss.”

Village life

The weekend excursion was set to begin at 8:00 Saturday morning, so naturally we pulled out of the parking lot around 8:35. The bus driver, however, was no longer on African time once the wheels started rolling- we overtook a host of sporty looking vehicles on the drive out to a local village. The chief greeted us all respectfully in turn and welcomed us officially to the kgotla (a public meeting place and community court) . In his presence, and in order to pay respect to the traditional Botswana ways, women are required to cover their shoulders with modest tops and wear ankle length skirts. Men are expected to present themselves in jackets and trousers. The elders of the village spoke only in Setswana, and with our rather befuddled involvement, carried out a mock wedding, funeral, and two court cases. I was the mother of the bride. A proud moment. We were shown around the village, took in the tranquillity of a local dam, and retired for lunch at the Motse Lodge. Delicious food and wonderful service, but the prevalence of Western culture was overwhelming. The lodge featured a swimming pool, flush toilets, air conditioning, and a dj station. I was happy to board the bus and head off again into the farther reaches of the country. We stopped for a moment at the Livingstone Tree. This massive wild fig once overlooked the famous missionary doctor as he administered both medicine and sermons to the local tribes. Its interlocking boughs create a cool, almost magical haven from the beating sun. We touched another piece of history on a walk up into the hills. Hundreds of years ago, the Toutswe people carved delicate figures into the rock faces. A Baobab tree, a herd of giraffes, a hunting party (three-legged figures=men), a majestic Gemsbok, a medicinal plant, and a family of Impala...yet every image would have gone unnoticed were it not for the knowing eyes of our guide. I reached towards the pictures and traced my finger along the same outline that a Toutswe tribesman had followed many centuries ago. Evening found our group at the Metsimotlhabe village where the Baboon totem is worshipped. Thankfully the reception in no way resembled the behaviour of the sacred animal. Under the tutelage of the tribe grandmothers (who were unbelievably agile and cheeky), we attempted a few African dance numbers. The chief sat back with a toothless grin as over fifty international students shuffled awkwardly around and tried to flail at the right moments. Good fun. The cooking introduced us to a few more traditional dishes, including stewed spinach, yeasty bread, and sorghum beer. I declined a second swig of the interesting brew after swallowing several unidentifiable chunks. An evening of ghost stories around a bonfire completed the delightful day, and I retired into my mud hut. Alas, the night was not spent sharing a bed of grass with ants, but rather on a comfortable mattress. Clearly we were not the first tourists to stop by the village. The following day took us out to the Mokolodi Game Reserve. In small groups we drove out along the trails in pursuit of wildlife. While I disdain the use of motorized vehicles to transport lazy tourists to prime destinations, the trails were closed to the hiking public. Something about leopards, hippos, and cheetahs...? However, I was thrilled to lay my eyes upon Zebras, Warthogs (Pumba for all the Disney enthusiasts), Impala, Ostrich, Waterbuck, and the spotted form of a cheetah hiding in the grass. I suppose money isn't abundant at the reserve, but for more successful animal sightings I would recommend vehicles that don't sound like demolition units. Not terribly stealthy. The reserve does have a campsite though that would certainly be worth the visit. We were served with another traditional feast and left Mokolodi, our cameras and bellies full. The drive back to Gabs (as locals affectionately call the city) was under half and hour, encouraging me to look into weekend volunteer opportunities at the reserve. The regularity of the university campus already had me pining for the African wilderness. And I miss my mud hut. Leaky roof and all.

Setswana lesson:

Dumela rra/mma = Hello sir/madam

O tsogile jang? = How are you? (formal)

Le kae? = How are you? (informal)

Leina lame ke Kelsey = My name is Kelsey

Ke a le boga = Thank you

I could listen to some Setswana words a hundred times over and still delight- the emphasized rolling of the rrr's is pure linguistic bliss! However, for a student of French, German, and Spanish (at various points in my life), the pronunciation has an element of alterity that leaves me struggling to communicate.

To infinity and beyond

As a veteran Canadian who has lived through many a long and frigid winter, I reserve the right to complain about the weather. Take today for example: What began as a windy, rainy morning soon gave way to cotton clouds, then blistering sun, sweltering temperatures, overcast skies, more sunshine, storm clouds, torrential rain, and finally a light, breezy evening. How on Earth is one supposed to dress?!?! I spent the temperamental day in a flurry of activities. First on the list, the Gaborone Museum (just off Main Mall). Quite a charming little establishment with a bevy of exhibits. It was refreshing to learn more about the history and culture of the country I was studying in. Not to mention the two locals, aka 'tour guide extraordinaires', who accompanied me and a fellow Canadian. The most interesting feature at the museum was a collection of artwork portraying the fight against HIV/AIDS in Africa. I have never seen so many, er...bananas, in paintings before. Both comical and serious works. Including a sculpture made entirely out of, well, 'rubbers'. ANYWAY. A bit of an eye opener. I also experienced my first combi ride on the journey out to “The Station”. For a reasonable price of 3 Pula you can board a mini bus (think VW van and Little Miss Sunshine), squash shoulder to shoulder with another sweaty passenger, and cross your fingers for luck as there are no seatbelts and the traffic is bumpy, busy, and fast. Quite exhilarating really. The Station is another outdoor shopping area with row upon row of local vendors (all selling suspiciously similar fare), a small strip mall complex, and a buzzing atmosphere. Hold onto your purses ladies! The evening drew to a close with a short cab drive out to the African Mall where a collection of tasty restaurants reside. Our group opted for Thai (when in Africa, why not?) and savoured the break from cafeteria clone food. A cab ride in the city amounts to about 30 Pula-shared among the four passengers-so not a bad option, particularly when safety is a concern. Night has closed in and the mosquitoes are buzzing so I think I'll call it a day.

Bumps in the Road

As the week rolls to an end, I conquer an important milestone: the ID card. Instant access to every facility on campus (library, pool, etc.) and my golden ticket at meal times. The left side of my head is strangely absent from the photo, but when are ID pictures ever photogenic? I am officially a student at the University of Botswana, registered for a cornucopia of classes: Wildlife Biology of Southern Africa (which includes a lecture and field/lab component), Conservation Biology (lecture + field/lab), Plant Pathology (lecture + field/lab), and...drumroll...Gymnastics. I also have my eyes on the UB Wildlife Conservation Society, which is active enough to feature its own website. Volunteer opportunities at the nearby game reserves look hopeful, but definitely merit further investigation. Talking to locals about the various parks/museums/reserves in and around Gaborone, I have come to some interesting conclusions. 1) Travelling, even within Botswana, is very expensive for students. The tourists and international students visit the Okavango Delta...Chobe National Park...the Kalahari Desert...most people born and raised in the country seldom travel outside their village or the closest city. 2) There is not a great deal of interest for natural attractions such as the National Botanical Gardens. Less than a 30 minute walk from campus and several acres in size, I have yet to talk to a local who knows of its existence. And there I am with a gargantuan star marking my map. My roommate probably thinks I'm strange. Reasonable assumption. Her name is Tumi, and though a bit shy and quiet, we've already bonded. Or rather, I've plagued her with questions. Maybe she'll join me on a romp through the Botanical Gardens...

A little side note...

In true African style, I joined in with some locals for a pick-up soccer game last night. Fantastic. After a difficult collegiate career I was thoroughly fed up with the sport, only to rediscover the thrill of scoring a goal and pulling off a commendable move. Naturally there are low expectations for my abilities (being a girl), but what a confidence boost! I hope this will become a weekly tradition for our group of soccer enthusiasts. Classes, on the other hand, were not such an adrenaline pumping endeavour. Here in Botswana, the first week is apparently “optional”. For professors and students alike. Very strange. Hopefully the end of the week will bring more certainty in terms of my course schedule and class expectations. I am definitely struggling with the flexible concept of time that is customary here. Meeting at 3:00 really means 3:15ish. A 7:00am opening time for the cafeteria is only to suggest that the doors are unlocked at seven...breakfast food will make an appearance after 8:00 if you're lucky. But who am I to be cynical. Bob Marley's “Don't worry, be happy” is the perfect soundtrack for the pace of life in Botswana. Time to stop and smell the flowers.

Living tip: There are laundry facilities a short jaunt from the Las Vegas dorms (appropriate name for an international student residence eh?), equipped with both washers and dryers. However, you will need to visit the souvenir shop on campus and exchange Pula for “tokettes” in order to activate the machines. Line drying is also available, and the fastest option if the weather agrees. Probably not wise to leave your clothes unattended though, as they're likely to go for a walk if you turn your back.

Living large

For the more authentic shopping experience, I would recommend Main Mall. There is a veritable combination of clothing stores, grocery stores, odds and ends, and outdoor stalls selling craft items and authentic goods. The daring soul can even purchase a cup of traditional Mopani worms. The tourist information center is also located here, and may be a good place to start planning for weekend trips and other excursions. A great way to get out into rural Botswana, however, is through an invite. And these are surprisingly easy to come by. I only talked for a minute or so with my neighbour and she was already asking me if I would like to join her for church in the morning. While not a very religious person, I was humbled by the invite and eager to experience a different aspect of Batswana life. The morning service was quite rewarding: Of course I still hold to my own personal beliefs, but there were several uplifting moments when the entire congregation was singing together in Setswana. Don't be surprised if you are invited to a wedding (huge, weeklong affairs with often as many as 1000 people), or to spend the weekend at a local village. I consider myself a bit socially awkward and incredibly shy. One heck of a blusher as well. However, sitting down in the cafeteria and introducing myself to a complete group of strangers has never been so well received. It is far more likely that the food may cause you some misgivings. Chicken livers for breakfast? Definitely one aspect of the culture that I don't intend to embrace. If you are a picky eater, the grocery store cashiers might just become your best friend. The offerings at the university cafeteria are limited. The most common companions on my plate are chicken, rice, sorghum, pap, cabbage, beets, soup/sauce (can't decide what it most resembles), butternut squash, and 3 ingredient salad. Variety is not always the spice of life, though, and I am quite satisfied with the food available...perhaps I'll reassess in three months time.

Security alert: It is one thing to heed warnings, but how often do you really believe that horrible things will happen to you? Despite the extensive security briefing delivered at orientation, we were still struck by a scary incident. Two of the students from the program were mugged. I suppose all I can say is...muggings happen everywhere. In New York City, Vancouver, Denver, Los Angeles. Since my arrival in Botswana, I have felt just as safe as in any city (Memphis, for example). I can't speak for my computer or camera, but diligence and precaution should prevent any theft. As to the mugging: Don't walk around by yourself, and if you can't find a taxi after dark, travel in large groups. Many people equate foreigners with money and will target you for that reason alone.

Orientation

Orientation should be renamed adaptation. Problems with the university computer network have ground registration to a halt and forced the international student coordinators into various acts of improvisation. The campus tour was also cancelled: Alas, I shall have to find my way around by a process of trial and error. Maps are not available. However, the local students are more than helpful, though you will have to approach them and not expect the opposite to happen. Every interaction is a learning experience that will bring you closer to appreciating Batswana (as the people of Botswana are called) culture. Today I had the opportunity to see more of Gaborone as the international students embarked on a bus tour of the city. We passed many commanding buildings (government offices, city hall, Debswana Diamond Company) and ended at Game City, the largest shopping center in Gaborone. If you are worried about culture shock, rest assured there are many ways to surround yourself with North American culture. Case study #1: the mall. It's certainly acceptable to purchase necessities and spend a few hours browsing the shops, but if you can do it at home, avoid it when you travel abroad. I'm looking forward to visiting a local market and learning about the more traditional fare of Botswana. That being said, I did make a very atypical sighting at the mall. A Baboon! Originally mistaken for a dog until it started to scale the fence. While I'm always on the lookout for wildlife, I can't complain about the distance on this occasion. According to the locals, Baboons are notorious thieves and can behave quite aggressively towards humans. I wouldn't like to try my luck in a wrestling match.

Zzzzz: Thank goodness for earplugs! My first few nights in the dorm (or hostel as it is called here) have brought back...er...“fond” memories of my initiation into university living. Some individuals like to party. If you're in search of a truly restful sleep, come prepared.

First impressions

The flight to Gaborone was a quick hour jaunt with amazing scenery thanks to the cloudless sky. I stepped off the plane and started sweating. Welcome to Botswana. Every local I have talked to complains about the heat, and then asks if they can come visit me in Canada or America. The following is a list of expressed desires (direct quotes):

-I want to see snow. It is so beautiful and cold. Can you eat it?

-I want to have a snow day. Or two. What about a snow week? Is that possible? Oh, that would be so wonderful.

-I want to make snowmen. Yes, just like in the movies, with a carrot nose. Run in the snow, play in the snow, lie in the snow...and make snowangels!

-I wish I could buy matching scarves and mittens. And all those cute hats. They do not sell these things in Botswana. No one will buy them.

Needless to say, there is never a lack of things to talk about, and everyone at the university LOVES to talk to international students. However, you might need to make the first move. Approach a classmate and introduce yourself. Sit at a table with locals when you eat in the cafeteria (or refectory, as it is called here). Taking those first steps is always hard, particularly in a new country, but I haven't gotten a cold shoulder yet.

Student tip: There were almost 80 students at the first international gathering/orientation, and almost half didn't have their luggage (thankfully I wasn't one of those...this time around). Eventually all the suitcases arrived, but be prepared for the worst. Bring your essentials and two changes of clothes in your carry-on luggage. There is nothing like travelling to a different country, living with strangers, and meeting new people in a three-day-old sweaty outfit.

IMPORTANT: Students from the United States and Commonwealth countries do NOT need a visa to enter Botswana. When you pass through customs/passport clearing at the airport in Gaborone, pay careful attention. The officer should stamp your passport and write V90D in the stamp. This stands for “valid 90 days” and allows you to stay in the country as a legal visitor for this amount of time. After ninety days you are considered an illegal immigrant: if your status is discovered you will be arrested, detained, sent to prison, or deported. I'm nodon't know what the exact consequences are, but they are certainly serious. Ninety days is the current and accepted time frame. If the officer writes a different number, politely question him or her. One student had V10D, another V14D, and several V30D. Erroneous. Applying for a residence permit (free of charge if the duration of your stay is under 6 months) can be a very stressful process in such a short time frame.

Dress code: You will need to take numerous showers in Botswana, or (if a 'save the planet' proponet like myself, use babywipes unless really unfortunate smelling). The weather is hot and humid- dress and pack accordingly. I was absolutely flabbergasted by the number of students on campus wearing pants, lonsleeve t-shirts, and (in the case of a few men) full out suits. It is a cultural expectation in Botswana to dress more conservative and professional, regardless of the egg frying temperatures. That being said, foreigners can get away with a few skimpy slip-ups. Along with my fellow international students, I have been wearing shorts and tank tops nearly every day-it has simply been too hot. Perhaps the cause of so much male attention. If you want to blend in and respect the customs in Botswana (I wish I had the fortitude to do so, but I would end up having to change clothes several times a day), keep this in the back of your mind when packing. Long, light skirts might be a good option for females, and thin, summer pants a safe bet for males.

Cultural note: White is not a common skin color in Botswana. Wherever you walk, people will stare. Particularly men. Perhaps women too, but being of the skirt wearing gender I can't fairly comment. Walking with a group of friends, we even had a car slow down, goggle, then turn around to drive past a second time. I suppose it depends on the individual, but I haven't found the attention in any way frightful or unnerving. It's quite amusing actually. And so far, any advances have only been for the sake of saying hello and exchanging names and smiles. However, without intending disrespect, the one word I would describe many Botswana men by is “smooth”. The local girls are in complete agreement.

Essentials: Bring a fan, or be prepared to pay around 150 pula to buy one. The dorm rooms do not have air conditioning (nor do most buildings on campus) and might be compared to a sauna during some hours of the day. Maybe a slight exaggeration, but it gets HOT, and there's nothing like thrashing around on the bed, sweating, and trying to fall asleep. Also, pack an umbrella. While you might get laughed off the streets in North America if you use it during summer weather, this is certainly not the case in Botswana. Embrace the parasol. Can't guarantee that males can tote one, but definitely fashionable with the ladies. Naturally quite useful when it rains as well. Rain jackets are simply too hot and induce more sweating, thus rendering the 'stay dry' purpose moot. Plug adapters and voltage converters (Botswana deals in 230 Volts, while North America uses 110 Volts) should also be on your list if you plan on using any North American technology in Botswana. While most of the country has plug sockets that fit three large, round prongs in a triangle, the dorm rooms are equipped with outlets that only accept the three pronged, rectangular shaped plugs. Did I mention toilet paper? Yes, bring at least one roll to tide you over when you first arrive at the dorm. A monthly allotment should be supplied, but things were so hectic at check-in time that I barely even secured a room.

More essentials:

-padlock for your dorm room door

-water bottle, cheap plastic or fancy depending on your preference

-a pair of flip flops

-a swim cap (required if you intend to use the olympic sized pool on campus. Given the heat, I would recommend this)

-laundry bag, sunscreen...just about everything you need can be purchased in Botswana, but packing it in your suitcase will save you some of the hassle. There are two reasonably large malls located within walking distance (under 30 minutes) of the campus.

The journey begins...

Hello Johannesburg. After a tiresome 24 hours of travel time I arrived in Africa, though still not my final destination. I had elected to spend the 15 hour layover at the Emerald Guest House. A very wise choice. I made a reservation in advance online- compared to the hotels and other lodging located near the airport, the Emerald Backpackers was the most affordable and offered a delightful shuttle service to and from the airport. Plus there were shamelessly cute resident bunnies that hopped around the grounds. The staff were extremely helpful and the dorm quite comfortable. A quick word of wisdom though: If you frequently spend your nights in five star hotels, this might not be your cup of tea. The rooms are very basic, and house a number of friendly spiders. Nothing that a biologist can't handle.
Student tip: US dollars are accepted at almost every currency exchange counter in the Johannesburg airport. These are located in the arrivals/pick-up area of the airport, which you will pass through once you claim your baggage. Coin phones, which accept the Rand in various denominations, can also be found here. The overwhelmingly friendly porters will assist you with anything you need.